Tropical Fish Hobbyist - October 2010

Each sexually mature male will establish a territory, which he will fiercely defend from the others. It is advisable, therefore, to place objects uch as roots, stones, coconut shells, and fallen leaves in the tank at some distance from one another. These spots will usually be chosen by the males as the centers of their territories. Males mustbeseparatedfromoneanotherwith objectssuchasplantsanddriftwoodthat will block their lines of sight to lessen theiraggressionandminimizeterritorial fighting. Thisspeciesisverycomfortable in a densely planted tank and it is therefore advisable to use water sprite, clumps of moss, and small Echinodorus or Cryptocoryne.

Breeding

Sexual dimorphism is strongly pronounced in adult fish; the males are significantly larger and heavier than the females. Males have a lyrate caudal fin with their anal, dorsal, and ventral fins elongated and truncate. The ventral fins are blue and their dorsal has a red margin. Comparatively, females have a round caudal fin, a distinct stripe appears on their abdomen, and their ventral fins are black.

It is advisable to buy a group of young specimens, for instance 10, and try to have a greater number of females than males to prevent incessant fighting. The male can have from one to as many as six females living within his territory.

During spawning, the female assumes a characteristic bright canary-yellow color and will lay up to a few hundred eggs in her chosen hiding place. If the male is too big to squeeze in through an opening (in the coconut shell, for instance), then he will propel his sperm, mixed with water, with energetic swipes of his caudal fin—it is a really striking spectacle. To help him and ensure that the milt covers the eggs evenly, the female will swim in and out of the hideout, thus creating a current, which increases the chances of the eggs being fertilized. The spawning can last for up to two hours. Afterward, the female no longer tolerates the presence of her partner but vigorously chases him away from the spawning site and sets to fanning the eggs

Plants and other structure are useful for breaking up lines of sight to reduce aggression in the A. steindachneri tank.

Food is not a problem at all, for these cichlids readily take both frozen and dry foods, preferably in the form of small granules that fall to the bottom. Do not forget to add foods that contain chitin or cellulose, such as minced shrimp, krill, or spinach.

These fish, as is the case with the majority of the Apistogramma species, do not tolerate increased levels of nitrogen compounds. An efficient biological filter and weekly partial water changes, preferably 30 to 40 percent, are therefore essential, as is good aeration.

As for the physical and chemical parameters required for reproduction, this species is not particularly fussy and will accept any pH value below 8. The water can be soft to medium hard, and the temperature can be 22° to 30°C ( 72° to 86°F).

To encourage adult females to breed, a change of aquarium decor may prove helpful—it is often enough to add a few overturned coconut shells or small pots with tiny openings, which can also be covered with a clump of Java moss. The females will choose one of these secluded hideouts as a place to lay their eggs.

with her pectoral fins, mouthing them clean whenever necessary.

At this time it is advisable to treat the water with some medication to keep the eggs from fungusing. After no more than three days, depending on the temperature in the aquarium, the larvae hatch, and after about another week the young will begin to forage. You can then give them freshly hatched Artemia, microworms, and algae mashed to a pulp. The female’s parental care lasts for a few weeks, and the male will tolerate the young, but as they grow bigger (especially when it comes to the males) that tolerance will wear thin.